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Thanks Kerry. No I didn't make a typo. The measurements are as I gave them. I was somewhat taken aback. But did go to Wikipedia and they certified it is actually closer to 24" then twenty three. I was sure that once I got the fretboard and it was slotted for a "Tenor" then I'd be ok. Now I think maybe the ebayer I bought it from maybe miss led me somewhat. It is a 19 fret board with lots left over. Thinking maybe made for a tenor banjo. I have no qualms about making a tailpiece and moveable bridge. Intonation is simple just move it till it's correct.
I'm quite sure I can also make a set bridge as well.
Now my question would you measure from the zero fret to the twelfth fret. Or from the nut? I would say the zero fret takes the nut out of the equation. However I could shorten the board the 1/8" that makes up the zero fret. Then I'd still be going from the nut to the saddle. The measurement at the 12th would be 11 1/4". Hope I cleared it up. Yes I was surprised at the zero fret as well as the 23 3/4" scale.


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My math was wrong. It should be 22 3/4" don't know how I did that but fit it in a hurry with my measuring tape and a piece of paper to show the bridge. I would have caught it when I measured with my straight edge. Nowhere near that stage yet however.


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Re your English wood guitar Nick I love it. Have you tried bending the walnut sides yet. I just tried bending some black walnut sides for an OM today and cracked both of them. Have enough left of the billet to cut another two but any info on bending would be much appreciated. I use a hot p[ipe and tried it dry and soaked with water but it just did not want to bend at all!

Cheers, Bob

Thanks, Bob! Really nice to hear!



I'm afraid I can't give you any expert advice about bending walnut, the following signature I've been thinking of using here should explain why...

Don't let my post count on the OLF fool you, I'm a rank amateur! I just enjoy talking about guitars!

But I'll try to give some [very] non-expert advice:

I'm bending on a form with a blanket this time. I've been practicing with khaya (African hog) and there hasn't been a hint of a crack. I am a little worried about the walnut though, I took the sides down earlier to prepare them for bending and they each had a crack in exactly the same place.... Thankfully, the sides were extra wide and the cracks formed on the edge I was planning on cutting/planing off anyway. I tried to split the cracks further but they seemed to have reached their natural end, so I'm hoping/pretty sure that they won't develop again. I'm planning on thicknessing them to 2.1mm, and planing them to this kinda shape (without the recurve, just the two lines)...

I've bent sides rectangular till now but I'm trying to stack the odds in my favour by cutting off more of that danger area where the split occurred... (I should've known that'd be a danger area, if you look at the pic of my walnut again, you'll see some very short grain at the end of the sides. I should be able to get rid of all of that before bending.)

I'm going to bend moderately wet, I think. Just spraying the brown paper before wrapping it around the side. On a pipe, I'd advise you to re-wet the side with a spray bottle wherever and whenever it visibly dries out, remembering that the water will cool it down so it needs time to reheat. Other than that, the usual advice stands, I suppose: heat the area you're going to bend thoroughly and try to "feel" the wood "release" before applying too much force. In my [limited] experience, and from what I've read, it can take 5-10 minutes of heat application to an area before it "releases". That's more than I ever expect it to take. The best piece of advice I have when bending on a pipe, I only learned when bending the binding for my last guitar (after struggling to bend the sides on the pipe): When a bend is done, the waist for instance, take it off the pipe and hold it in that shape for 2 minutes minimum, or the bend won't set. I found counting to 120 or more worked well. It was a real epiphany for me! Till then, I'd been wondering why I had to keep re-bending the same area.

You're lucky to have more sides from the same billet. If I crack mine tomorrow, I'm in trouble! Did yours crack in the same place on each? did they crack along short, or otherwise dodgy grain? Or was it just too much force/not enough heating?

Hope this is of some help! And thanks again for the compliments on my English guitar design!

All the best,
Nick

EDIT: Other advice would be a thin steel slat or two to help better distribute the bending force. Or even just bending it with brown paper around it to hold in some of the moisture(?).

Don't let my post count on the OLF fool you, I'm a rank amateur! I just enjoy talking about guitars!

I've only bent walnut once. Last week I bent two sides for a baritone Uke. Soaked overnite then bent on #5 on my Stewmac bending iron. Had no difficulties at all. Only thing is it was so pliable. If that's the correct word. Placed it in my mold and braced it in there. While bending I did spritz with water when it got dry.


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Yep the zero fret takes the nut out of the equation.. Yes if you cut the board at the zero fret you could just use it with a nut as a "normal" fretboard.

Kerry

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My Luthier's Blog...http://klwstrings.blogspot.com

Thanks Kerry I did repost that my math was off. It measures 22 3/4". I'm not at all familiar with a zero nut. I've heard lots of discussion to and fro. I do have a guitar with a zero nut. Personally I guess I'm just old fashioned I like the nut. So I'll probably remove the zero fret. I feel that if I were to measure exactly to the 12th fret and double that measurement would give you you the exact saddle placement. Works on other guitars. If I do that and set the bridge I'm stuck with it. Any thoughts?


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yes it's just a guitar with a bit shorter scale and 4 strings you will of course have to include whatever you do for compensation. I have found that for compensation what I do for 6 string guitars seems to work for my tenors, maybe a hair less but as i say it's not my strong point.

Kerry

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My Luthier's Blog...http://klwstrings.blogspot.com

Thanks Kerry

I am also building a 25.4" in white oak Ready to finish.-Cant wit to hear it!

The Alfie Smith guitar I just finished has a 24.9" scale and I and the new owner are very happy with the sound-very easy to play.

I'm building a 3/4 size or Terz guitar. B&S are of local maple (not too stunning) Scale is 21.375" Will be a Christmas gift for #2 grandson. The body is complete and need to finish carving the neck! Then on to the finishing!

here's some pics of my latest,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 7352_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 1c24b6af82

13 fret 000 with Walnut from Larry Davis and Sitka top.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Very nice, just saw your thread on aging the new top for the J-45 looking froward to seeing these

Really nice work, John!
I bet the binding was difficult to do.
The knob depressions look perfect. The head is awesome.
The guitar and hardware finishes are very cool!

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Thanks Dan, I really worked to the edge of my skills and knowledge on this one. I was a bit nervous towards the end that it was all going to end up being too busy and wild, but I'm happy with how it came together. I need to get some better pics up after I finish a couple things.

John that is one pretty guitar

Those 4 boxes you've got parked on the bench look great! You've been busy

Hope you can make it to the luthier meeting next week.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

There are so many luthiers building essentially perfect examples of guitars nowadays that I feel it is hard to be original as here are only so many ways to design an acceptable guitar.
Finding a way to establish a style of your own is the true challenge of a maker after they have mastered the "construction" of the instrument.
Who you are as a maker should show through your work. My latest is an expression of how I feel when I make a guitar, or to the question of how you build a guitar.
My answer is one piece at a time

Ha, that's pretty sweet Sam. I bet folks will wonder whether the upper bout 'pieces' will pop out to make a soundport.

I can't really afford to rent a shop any more, so my current project is converting my 10 by 20 shed into a shop. Iv been insulating, running electric, and dry walling it.

Whoa, Nelly, Sam!
That's a bunch of spectaular mixed with awesome.
I like the clear Maple. It has the "I want to touch it" look.
Very clever design.

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I have a couple going right now. (Don't we all?)

I have an electric four pickup going for one of my grandsons:
http://www.guitarplansunlimited.com/In%20the%20shop%20pages/Jamies%20Pawn%20Shop.html

And I have a goofy thing going that I'm calling a Dano-Lego:
http://www.guitarplansunlimited.com/In%20the%20shop%20pages/Dano-Lego.html

Those are really cool, Jamie!
Your grandson is a lucky duck!

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