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Ok got my neck finished fretboard on and fretted ,when i check with straightedge it just grazes top of bridge which is 3/8 inch. Is this in the ball park? Thanks Rob.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.

Perfect, well done!

It will be probably be alright, but I shoot for at least a 1/16" above because the top will rise a little. also it gives more saddle above the bridge for future settling in.

Interesting question. Assuming you wish to get something close to 1/2" final string height over the top at the bridge on a new/never strung traditionally constructed flattop guitar, I would lean towards Mr. Goodman's suggestion. On a reset of an older instrument, I would tend toward agreement with Mr. North's 'thumbs up' response. Is this new construction or a reset?

Why this matters:

A new flattop guitar will 'settle' over the first few months, with much of that body distortion or apparent 'top rise' occurring within a week or so after stringing up. A lightly constructed instrument might see as much as .060" apparent rise in the top (really an aggregate of back, side, and top distortion due to loading), while something built to the approach Guild took on much of their Westerly 6 string production might see closer to .030 inch change. This is the basis upon which I feel Mr. Goodman's response reflects what you may see if your instrument is in fact new construction.

For an existing instrument, we usually have the advantage of knowing something about how much change we might see in string height above the top under load with measurement both under load and unloaded. Most existing instruments have distorted such that - even with load removed - much of that top rise/distortion is already locked in place. If Mr. Goodman's suggestion on new construction neck geometry is IMO inappropriately applied to a reset on an older guitar, I believe most repair people would anticipate an over-set.

Further, resets must deal with the guitar as it is versus how it might have left the shop or factory decades earlier, to include bridge thicknesses below or above what might be considered optimal as well as overall construction (e.g., 00-21NY versus a 1970's D-28). Further geometry adjustment might be required to avoid a very tall saddle on a thin bridge (with possible structural failure of the saddle slot) or deliver a guitar back to the customer with a very weak reset and minimal benefit to volume, note-to-note separation, projection, and change in saddle height.

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A constellation only takes shape when one maps the whole.
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